Popelouchum + Randall Grahm: Lunch in the Vineyard named 'Paradise' with the Original Rhône Ranger
Last summer I had two tickets to a lunch in the vineyards of Popelouchum. Jake was busy and couldn't join me, so I had R come with me as my plus-one. It supported my goal of making wine-drinkers of my Gen Z kids; he is great company and a fairly sophisticated palate for a kid who routinely drank Pabst Blue Ribbon Beer with his roommates.
I never posted about it. So I thought this month's theme of adventures in the vineyard was the perfect time to dig up the photos, dust off my foggy memories, and share this afternoon.
Here are the other posts...
Missouri Wine Harvest 2026 by Our Good Life
Popelouchum + Randall Grahm: Lunch in the Vineyard named 'Paradise' with the Original Rhône Ranger by Culinary Cam (you're here)
Sweet Memories of a Vineyard Visit by A Day in the Life on the Farm
Popelouchum
Years ago I met Randall Grahm at this same vineyard when I was writing an article for Edible Monterey Bay that was published as ON THE VINE: THE SAN BENITO WINE TRAIL. The name of the vineyard - Popelouchum - is the Mutsun word for 'paradise' and refers to a 400 acre vineyard and farm just outside of San Juan Bautista.
Grahm acquired Popelouchum in 2012 - just before I met him there the first time - with the goal of creating new expressions of wine that are deeply tied to the soil. I think that may have been the first time I truly understood the term 'terroir'. Certainly I had heard it, but Grahm explained it succinctly as we sat beneath the windmill at the corner market in San Juan Bautista. He said that terroir was both the wine's unique characteristics imbued by the physical attributes of a site and the "perception and participation of a human being."
Popelouchum lies adjacent to the San Andreas Fault and the seismic activity has resulted in a multitude of distinct soil types. As a respectful steward of the land, Popelouchum is farmed regeneratively, focusing on biodiversity and soil health. But, perhaps, one of the most noteworthy differences between Grahm's vines and other vineyards: he is cultivating vines from seed instead of cloning existing varieties. He has planted some self-pollinating grapes to generate genetically distinct siblings and he employs some traditional cross-breeding to create thousands of new grape varieties as well.
Popelouchum might well be described as Grahm's living laboratory.
Randall Grahm
Speaking of the man, the myth, the legend, after this lunch, my son refers to Grahm as 'the wine Radagast.' If you don't know the reference, Radagast is a wizard in The Lord of the Rings, a tender of the beasts. Grahm is a vine wizard, apparently. I can agree with that. But that is just our own name for him.
He is, however, widely accepted as the original Rhône Ranger. In 1989, he appeared on cover of Wine Spectator dressed in blue polyester with a horse and that moniker as the header.
'The Rhône Rangers' now refers to a group of American winemakers who promote the use of grape varieties from the Rhône Valley. A majority of them are California-based and they have created a not-for-profit organization to promote wines containing at least 75% of the 22 Rhône grape varieties.
The Wines
After walking through the vineyard with Grahm as he talked to use the about estate and the vines, we settled down under a majestic oak tree to eat salad, sandwiches, and drink some of his wine. Many bore the Popelouchum label; one was from Grahm's latest The Language of Yes imprint, one was a fourteen-year-old Bonny Doon wine, and the last had no label at all. It was a bottle of homemade Nocino that Grahm had just re-discovered in his basement or somewhere!
'The Language of Yes' or La Langue d’Oc is what the medieval people of southern France used to describe who they were by how they spoke. The Language of Yes is a precursor to modern Provençal. For Grahm it also reveals a deep, almost spiritual love of the land.
2017 Popelouchum Sparkling
The only sparkling wine we tried was approximately half and half Grenache gris and Grenache Blane. With fine, persistent bubbles, the wine poured an elegant pale gold. It was fragrant and floral. On the palate it was fruit-forward balanced by savory notes and a dry salinity.
2022 The Language of Yes Pink Wine Le Cerisier Central Coast AVA
More gris de gris than pink wine. 'Gris de Gris des Sables' refers to a specific style of rosé wine, especially from the Camargue, which blends the Rhône grapes such as Grenache and Cinsault, pressing them with their skins to achieve a light salmon color.
This particular wine is comprised of 60% Tibouren, 26% Cinsaut, and 14% Grenache. The nose is heavily floral while on the palate the wine has red fruit flavors and low acid. There is even a hint of bitterness on the finish which keeps the wine from being too fruity.
2021 Popelouchum Estate Blanc
This is a blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, made in a Roussillon-like in style. It's ivid, intense, and uber-aromatic. There even a garrigue-like note that I usually only detect in red wines. This is hefty for a white wine, but still energetic and zippy. But perhaps my favorite part of this wine was its hints of my favorite spice: cardamom.
2022 Popelouchum Estate Blanc
The grapes were allowed to stay on the vines a little longer than in the 2021 vintage. They were given about two hours' skin contact and, then, barrel-fermented. This wine had a warm golden hut and subtle, smoky oak aromas. On the palate, it was full-bodied and juicy. But a salinity balanced it all.
2023 Popelouchom Grenache Blanc
While the previous two pours were a blend of Grenache Gris and Granache Blanc, this single varietal was a celebration of the Grenache Blanc grapes, a terrific purity of the grape. I noted aromas of white florals, Meyer lemon peel which is the most floral of the lemons, some crisp green apple, and a hint of Spring strawberries.
2020 Popelouchum Pinot Noir
This is the first vintage after having to replant the vines following the decimation of the first plantings by, what Randall called, “monster” tree rats. That story just made me shudder; I am not big on rodents of any kind. This was lightly spicy with a tinge of oak, a delightful bottle of Pinot Noir.
2012 Cigare de Volant
This is wine that Grahm makes every year The 2012 blended 39% Mourvèdre, 33% Grenache, 26% Syrah and 2% Cinsaut to create a very savory, Old World-style blend with a rustic palate and rich aromas. There is a reason this is a perennial favorite!
Homemade Nocino
As most nocino batches, Randall's was unlabeled. You can read the process I use every year for my Nocino.
Other Vineyard Adventures
Down River Road...
In 2012, Jake and I had tickets for a private ATV tour at Hahn Wines down River Road. That was an adventure! I found photos, but no real notes about what we tasted or paired. Still, I wanted to share some photos as it's always a treat to be among the vines.
In Paso Robles...
Back in December 2024, I posted Regenerative Organic: Farmed Like the World Depends on It + the Feral Wines of Tablas Creek about a day in the Adelaida part of Paso Robles. That cemented by complete adoration of Tablas Creek and Jason Haas is a personal hero!
In 2019 I drove down to Paso Robles to meet up with Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm. Along with her husband, Frank, her brother and sister-in-law, we met up with Lori of Dracaena Wines. It was before Lori and Mike opened their tasting room in downtown Paso, so we walked the vines, then tasted at her crush pad before we had lunch at Cass Winery.
For D's 21st birthday, we drove down to Paso and did a ton of vineyard hopping and wine tasting. Naturally, I had to share Tablas Creek with him. But we also toured the winery at Halter Ranch.
I feel extremely fortunate to have access to so many vineyards and wineries. I had tried to get in a day with Nichole of Ser Wines this harvest season. But it wasn't meant to be. Maybe next year! That's a wrap on my visit to Popelouchum and a lunch with Randall Grahm. I can't wait to get my hands on the newest vintage of his wines. Stay tuned for more vineyard experiences ahead of the October combined wine writers group. I also can't wait to hear that the others share.
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