This month I invited the Wine Pairing Weekend writers to shine their spotlights on women in wine. You can read my invitation to the #WinePW Festa delle Donne. Let me preface this post: If you are a pandemic deny-er or an anti-vaxxer, scroll on by. Seriously. Please. This post honors three women who lost their lives to that awful virus and left their families marked by COVID.
I already mentioned that I am hosting, so I decided to do something a little bit differently. I embraced 'the more, the merrier' and told the writers they could link up as many articles on the topic as they have live by Saturday morning. Here we go. I can't wait to learn more about all of these women in wine!
The Line-Up
A Virtual Tasting with Tara Gomez and Mireia Taribó of Camins 2 Dreams + Roasted Portabello Risotto with their 2021 Santa Ynez Vineyard Carignan by Culinary Cam
Celebrating So Much Love with Nicole Walsh's 2022 Grüner Veltliner from Ser Winery by Culinary Cam
Celebrating Women in Wine with Delta Airlines by A Day in the Life on the Farm
Festa delle Donne and some of my favorite Women in Wine in Italy! by Crushed Grape Chronicles
Marked by COVID: The Legacy of Milla Handley along with Favorites of Ann Abney and Evita Anderson by Culinary Cam (you're here)
Nadiya Bıçakcı: Carving a Different Path in Wine by The Quirky Cork
The Talents of Sophie Hauville and Vailia From Collide with Cheesy Seafood Pasta, a Valentines' Cheeseboard, and Two Bottles of Desparada by Culinary Cam
The Women of Turkish Wine by Andrea Lemieux of The Quirky Cork
Wine, Women, and Success: Unveiling the Inspiring Journey of Karen Birmingham in the World of Wines by Our Good Life
Women in Wine: Agroecological Wines by Sara Pérez at Mas Martinet in Spain’s Priorat DOC with Duck a la Espagnole, Eggplant Importancia, Couscous to Celebrate Women’s History Month by Wine Predator...Gwendolyn Alley
Women in Wine: Meet the Sonoma-Cutrer Winemakers by Cooking Chat
Marked by COVID
When the world shut down in March 2020, I don't think that any of us anticipated just how much that virus would change our lives. We canceled an international trip with the high school robotics team within the first few days and told the kids that they couldn't come over to work on the robot during Spring Break as we had originally planned. I had no idea that my kids wouldn't physically go to school for another almost 18 months. I couldn't have envisioned that our older son would graduate high school in a drive-through ceremony, pick a college he had never even visited, and spend his entire freshman year taking classes from his bedroom here at home.
Drive-Through Graduation for Monterey High School Class of 2020, Weathertech Raceway Laguna Seca
I am certain you have heard of business casual, but what about Corona-fancy? Yes, my husband sat in the car with a coat and tie up top and pajama bottoms and flip-flops on the down below.
Truth be told, in hind sight, getting to graduate and drive a victory lap at the Weathertech Raceway at Laguna Seca was one for the history books. But it certainly felt like they were missing out on a major milestone. And, now, years later kids are academically behind and socially stunted. Flash forward to his college graduation and we were sitting around the dining room table at his apartment. I realized that none of those kids were able to enjoy the usual social happenings to end high school such as prom or a graduation full of levity and congratulatory hugs. What a loss! But they survived though they are not unscathed.
True losses were actual deaths - not anonymous deaths in the news as the fatalities mounted around the world. Two very dear friends lost their mothers because those women had believed that the vaccines were unnecessary or that God would protect them from the virus. And both of my friends carry anger, regret, and grief with them about those avoidable deaths.
When I discovered that wine-making pioneer Milla Handley had died from COVID, I knew that I wanted to pour her wine with favorite foods from my friends' moms: Ann Abney and Evita Anderson.
Milla Handley, A Winemaking Pioneer
When I came across Milla's name in relation to women in (California) wines, I was immediately impressed by her accomplishments. She was one of the first women to graduate from the University of California Davis in fermentation science; she blazed the trail for grape growers and winemakers in Mendocino County's Anderson Valley; and in 1982 she became the first female winemaker to establish an eponymous label: Handley Cellars.
When I saw that she died of COVID at the age of sixty-eight, I cried. Not just a dignified tear or two. I ugly-cried. As I said, the pandemic's effects continue to ripple through our lives on a daily basis. It was then that I knew I needed to get my hands on some of her wines for this event.
Milla moved to Anderson Valley in late 1970s and opened Handley Cellars in the early 1980s. This winemaking pioneer bucked traditions, crafting low-alcohol, high acid wines, with subtle oak before it was hip. Remember, in the 80s, oak was big, especially in California wines. Think about all those heavily oaked Cabernet Sauvignons and butterballs of Chardonnay. Yikes!
Milla leaned towards making Pinot Noir and aromatic white wines. With her death, the company's reins have been taken up by Milla's daughter Lulu. But, even before that, Lulu's influence was poignant. Under her leadership, Handley became the first Anderson Valley winery to obtain organic certification. When she traveled to the Peruvian Altiplano, she loved the ancient farming practices and implemented them on the land she grew up on.
Handley Cellars - and MIlla's legacy - is in solid hands and I look forward to exploring more of them. The restrained style is beautiful and elegant.
Cheesy Soufflé for Ann Abney
When I decided on my theme, I texted my friend Anna who lost her mother during the pandemic. Anna is heavily involved with Marked by COVID, a survivor-led movement for pandemic justice and remembrance founded by Kristin Urquiza. I met Kristin at an event that Anna hosted at her restaurant in Carmel.
Anna messaged me that her mom loved Limoncello and admitted that her mom wasn't a great cook, but made lots of Southern casseroles. She shared that for holidays she would make sweet potato muffins. Then she said that her "favorite was cheese soufflé."
The word 'soufflé' sent simultaneous ripples of panic and excitement through my veins. I had never made one and always feared having it collapse into a dense little cake. I decided to risk it, knowing that it was Anna's favorite and would pair nicely with Handley's Pinot Noir.
It ended up being a ramekin full of a fluffy, cheesy delight. I will definitely be making this again soon.
Ingredients
3 Tablespoons butter, plus more for greasing the ramekins
2 Tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese, for dusting the ramekins
3-1/2 Tablespoons flour (I used the Bob's Red Mill 1-to-1 Gluten-Free Baking Flour)
1 cup whole milk
salt and pepper
1 teaspoon whole grain mustard
1 pinch cayenne pepper, optional
5 large eggs, separated
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 cup grated cheese (I used a Gruyère)
Procedure
Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.
Butter your ramekins, then spoon Parmigiano-Reggiano into the dishes. Swirl the cheese around so that the inside surface of the ramekins are covered in cheese...just like you would butter and flour a cake pan before baking.
In a medium mixing bowl, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar together until stiff peaks form.
Melt butter in a saucepan, then whisk in flour to make a roux. In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the milk and egg yolks. Pour the egg-milk mixture into the roux and whisk until it begins to thicken. Fold in the mustard and cheese. Stir until melted and smooth. Gently fold in the beaten egg whites, taking care not to deflate them too much.
Spoon the mixture into the prepared ramekins and place on a baking sheet. Place the sheet in the preheated oven and bake for 35 to 40 minutes until fully set. When you pull them out of the oven, they will be golden brown and risen. Serve them immediately as they will deflate and fall as they cool.
Bistek for Evita Anderson
When I texted Pia for some of her mom's favorite dishes, she responded: pinakbet, sinigang with butterfish, adobo Ilocano-style which is more of a dry adobo, and steak with soy sauce, onions and lemon, not sure what it's called.
Given that I really don't like paria (bitter melon), I skipped that. I love my grandmother's sinigang, but I will have to try it with butterfish. I make adobo all the time, but will have to looks up the Ilocano-style. My family is Ilocano, so I wonder if that is what I usually make. I wouldn't call it 'dry', so I am unsure. That left the steak with soy sauce, onions, and lemon. I looked up those words, adding Filipino, and the search engine returned: Bistek.
I messaged Pia to confirm and she admitted that that was the word in her head, but she wasn't sure. I read several different recipes and came up with this...
Ingredients
1 pound Beef Sirloin, thinly sliced and pounded
1/2 cup soy sauce (I used gluten-free)
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (traditional is calamansi juice if you can get it)
2 onions, peeled and sliced into rings
1/2 cup beef stock
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 Tablespoons oil
Procedure
Place the beef slices in a bowl or container with lid. Add soy sauce and lemon juice. Massage to let the marinade cover the meat. Cover and let marinate overnight in the fridge. Once you're ready to cook, let the meat come to room temperature. Remove the meat and reserve the marinade.
Dissolve the cornstarch in the beef stock. Whisk until fully incorporated.
Heat oil over medium heat. Add the onion rings and cook to desired doneness. I did mine as just slightly tender. Remove from the oil and set aside.
After I sent Pia a photo, she responded, "My mom's onions were browned like sautéed mixed with the steak, not on top. This must be from a different region."
In the same pan, add the beef and cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Transfer cooked beef slices on a serving plate. Top with cooked onions.
Still in the same pan over low heat, pour in the reserved soy sauce marinade. Add in the cornstarch mixture and bring to a simmer while stirring constantly. Cook until sauce thickens. Pour the sauce over the beef and onions. Serve hot.
That's a wrap on my official #WinePW post for March's Festa delle Donne. The combined wine writers will returned next month to post with #ItalianFWT. I am hosting again with a look at Italian Alpine Red and White Wines. Here's the official invitation.
What a touching post....and yes....I am ugly crying.